Recommendations for Valladolid and vicinity(for you Toni :))

Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:11 am

I recommend a dinner at Plaza Maya in Valladolid. It's about 6 blocks west of the square on the same street as the big cathedral - C23 on Laura's map. You can order a tray(bandeja) with samples of all their Mayan dishes – Lomitas de Valladolid, Escabeche Oriental, Puerco Adobado, Tamales Callados, Longaniza de Valladolid, Salbutes, Panuchos, etc. ending with the delicious after-dinner drink of Xtabentun. We did this with our kids and grandkids and they loved it. They will make the tray large enough to feed the number of people you have eating. It's a great way to sample all the varieties of Mayan cuisine.

We also most often stay at Meson del Marques. I found out about another place we are going to try close to the convent of San Bernadino. It's a B&B called Casa Quetzal. It's less pricey, and we love that neighborhood. The central plaza is so full of traffic any more.

I have read that if you walk up and down the street at 6am that the bus station is on you will see people getting ready to sell what they've grown in their milpas. If you ask, they might be delighted to show you where and how they grow their food. It's on my list of things to do in Valladolid. We also try to be there over a Sunday so we can enjoy the municipal market. It's is a riot of color and fresh vegetables and fruits. Plus they sell the various recados necessary for Yucatecan cooking. I often buy fresh honey there.

A year ago when I took a culinary tour, we drove south of Chichen Itza to the small village of Yaxunah where there is an old archeolocgical camp that has been converted into an Eco-Tourism attraction by a local family. They have some very basic rooms for rent, a small 'restaurant', and tours of the local ruins. They also grow their own food, and it was fascinating to learn about the process of growing food on a milpa. We cooked in their kitchen (I got to try my hand at homemade tortillas, and the señoras had their giggle of the day), toured their ruins, and ate a wonderful dinner on tables covered by handmade tablecloths, which they sell.

Another interesting village to visit is Uayma, northwest of Valldolid. We were there a couple of years go for a day as translators for a medical mission team from the USA. There is a magificent Franciscan mission there that has been restored. It's worth seeing. http://www.colonial-mexico.com/Yucatan/uayma.html

Advanced Member Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Posts: 105

What great info, I have emailed Casa Quetzal, we will def.stay there. Looks beautiful. Printed your detailed recommendations and added it to my folder. Thanks , can't wait. 29 weeks or so and counting!

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 4:08 pm

What are your dates, Toni? We are looking at some dates in Oct/Nov and want to spend a week or so in Valladolid and surrounds also.

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:10 am

Thanks so much for that link to Uayma. By looking at the map, it appears that we went right by that little town and never saw that glorious church. Perhaps I am reading the map wrong and it is not possible to miss. Just the same, had I known, I would have gone looking for it. Thanks for this opportunity to learn.

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:54 am

You are welcome, Trudy. Here are a couple more things I found on another forum that I have been wanting to explore. I guess I like the odd things:

"The truck farm is out of Valladolid toward Tiziman, and I can't really remember how far the turnoff is. It will be a paved road going east and I think there are some signs indicating the road leads to some small villages. The truck farm was probably less than three miles off the highway and on the south side of the local road. The workers were very friendly. I pulled a few radishes I thought were ready, and one of them waved me off. He then went to another area and came back with a bunch for me. I tried to pay him, but he wouldn't take anything.

The pig hide processing plant was off the same highway, but going west on a dirt trail, and after a mile or so going back south on another dirt trail. The building was probaably 40' x 60' and just south of a fairly large field of aloe plants. It looked like they soaked and scraped the hides by hand and then put them in a series of vats probably 10 feet in diameter which were turning with chain drive powered by gas or diesel englines. It was quite a operation and I still wonder how they transported the raw and finished products as the road was hardly passable in our van, let alone trucks.

Our group is always wanting to know what's at the end of a road."

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:23 pm

JAH,

As usual your posts are terrific. I still have a few more weeks here in Tankah before heading north. We are going to check out your suggestion for Plaza Maya and also the Uayama.

Now that we have the time to travel around we also have our pets with us, so that really limits our exploration. It's difficult to find accommodations allowing pets. Ann's driving instructions where such a huge help to us and really had a smooth ride down because of her hotel recommendations and directions.

Thanks again!
Carole

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:36 pm

I am so hungry now and I just ate lunch a short while ago.
Thanks for the excellent recommendations

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:09 pm

We had our lab with us in Feb/Mar, and I found it very restrictive. I spent hours on the internet finding one hotel in PDC that would accept a dog. Plus we couldn't go to any restaurant that didn't have outdoor seating, and when we went shopping someone had to stay in the car with the dog! Sigh. We spent 2 nights there. After that, we spent the remainder of the 4 weeks at our house, which is just fine with my husband. He is no longer interested in exploring anywhere for any reason. This is the man who 40 years ago drove his car from Mexico City to the Yucatan coast and on down to Belize and back. Go figure!

I did come across an internet site that lists pet-friendly hotels in Mexico. I don't know how current it is, but at least it is some kind of resource. http://gringodog.home.comcast.net/pet-friendly.htm

Advanced Member Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Posts: 105

We will be there 10/19, 10/20 and perhaps 10/21. Judith emailed back and we are confirmed.....29 weeks but who's counting?? Razz

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:28 pm

I'd appreciate it if you would report back about the Casa Quetzal, Toni. I don't know exactly when we'll get there, but those dates are a bit early for us.

Advanced Member Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Posts: 105

I will post a report and also add pics. It looks so welcoming and so serene. I would not have heard about it, thanks so much for mentioning it.
I will be hitting the streets and zocalo, ...bargaining !! Laughing

Mark will be "resting" by the pool Wink

waiting to hear all about my adventures.

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 9:23 am

I found this review of Casa Quetzal on an Isla Mujeres board. It sounds lovely:

"We stayed there in late February during a weekend trip to Chichen Itza and Cenote Dzitnup. It is beautiful. The rooms are large and very nice and comfortable. The bathrooms are also very nice and large. The central courtyard is like a sanctuary from the rest of the city. We were 2 adults, two 16 year olds, and my 11 year old who slept in a hammock. It was $60 per night (no extra charge for extra persons) and well worth it. Judith Fernandez is a gracious and wonderful hostess and makes you feel right at home. We would definitely stay there again if we ever go back to Valladolid."

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 4:13 pm

Thanks for all this great info. I will be in Akumal the last week of Oct with family and friends and then the first week of Nov I think the same group I brought last October wants to return and they are VERY interested in a side trip for a night - I was telling them about Valladolid and maybe as afra as Izamal for the day bet spend the night in Valladolid so I was thrilled to see this post!!! I was thinking of putting them up in Meson del Marques cause we ate lunch there in Feb and it looked nice but I may have go look into Casa Quetzal - when are you going there?

Advanced Member Joined: 21 Oct 2005 Posts: 105

We'll be there 10-19,10-20, and possibly the 21st. I hope to be at Hacienda Chichen the 21st. Love that place.

Judy, thanks for the review from the Isla Board. Can't wait

Senior Member Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 34

This is all such great information! After all these years, we are seriously thinking of spending a few nights in Vallodolid.